Day 32: St. Jean Pied de Port to Ronceveaux 26 kilometers

Awoke prepared to climb over the Pyrenees today except for Joan fighting a bad cold. Today began with breakfast at Alain's Gite. One of our top petite dejeuners yet. Yogurt and grain cereal with bread baked in his kitchen, and an apple and cheese! Ate with Jack and William who will finish walking today.  We left at 7:45 and it was quite cool and foggy.  Of course my "tough as nails" wife knew she would be sweating as soon as we started climbing so she didn't bother to don any cool weather clothing like most others who walk. They looked at her like she was crazy. And there are so many people walking this morning. Way different than the last month. The first 10 kilometers are very steep so it is a rough start.  Last year we started in Hunto which was five kilometers into the journey.  We arrived at Orrison which is at the 9 kilometer mark at about 9:15 where we took our first break and got an excellent espresso.  Continued on until we got to the statue of Mary and took another break for our daily banana.  As we walked we started hearing a lot of American English spoken.  It's amazing that in the last month we had only encountered three Americans and in our first few hours we saw several times that amount. Walked a while more until we encountered Henri and his buddy Alex who were passing out water and offering encouragement to the pilgrims. Henri said we didn't look like Americans because we were fit (not a good statement about the state of what people think of our country). It was quite funny but we were very conflicted on what language to speak as there were still many French but we started hearing the familiar refrain "Buen Camino" instead of "Bon Chemin" (and of course all the English). We eventually passed the France/Spain border and found ourselves a bit sad. Seems we have grown quite fond of the French people and their land in the last month. Passed the shelter at the 20 kilometer mark and found a big rock to sit on and enjoy our picnic. After a long break we headed off to complete our day's journey.  We felt like we kept a relatively slow pace since Joan wasn't feeling well yet we arrived in Ronceveaux at 1:45.  We finished the day in six hours with numerous breaks. We had wondered if last year we were just pumped on adrenaline because it was the start of our journey. We didn't think it wasn't nearly as hard as people had said. That was part of the reason we wanted to do it again because generally, we don't like to retrace our steps. But now we have to wonder if our last four weeks of walking made us strong enough to think it wasn't that bad. Upon arriving I did what I had been wanting to do for weeks....throw off my shoes and put my feet and ankles in the cold creek that runs behind the cathedral.  It was so cold but so amazingly refreshing and therapeutic. 

We then found our accomodations. We eschewed staying in the big albergue since Joan is sick and were able to book a room at the Casa de Beneficiandos.  Wish I could find rooms like this in the states for these prices. It's a one bedroom apartment. Nice! We were able to get an early dinner here at the hotel restaurant and it was a surprising treat. Delicious! 

Casa De Los Beneficianados (Hotel Roncevalles) - Excellent!!

Day 22: La Romieu to Larressingle 21 Kilometers

A semi-traditional petite dejeuner started our day at the convent (yogurt and fruit added!). A short convo with our host, Pascal, and we were on our way.  Saw the cat statue on our way out of town, a tribute to Angeline, who legends say saved the village in an interesting story (too long to explain). Walked for quite a bit until we reached the city of Condom (no typo).  Daily business, food procuring and coffee before we were back on our way.  The trails off the road are still a bit muddy.  Not our fave but we keep hoofing it.  We had a crossroads to find where we would take a direct route to our destination town.  We stopped at a crossroads and were consulting our guide when a lady Pelerin came along.  We told her where we were headed and she advised us to take the road north.  We started walking when along came a young man who asked us where we were going.  When we explained, he told us we were going towards the busy road.  We had turned too soon.  We talked further and discovered that he was the son of the lady who runs the Gite where we are staying tonight! Our guardian angel, Michael! We went back to the path and eventually we reached Larressingle, the home of a really cool castle with a moat.  We pique-niqued in town and then had coffee and a superb crepe with caramel ice cream.  Michael and his mother, Martine came by while we were there.  We followed them back to her Gite.  Martine is a former Pelerin who has walked the Camino, her first time being 1974 when there was little infrastructure.  She has a wonderful place and is so sympathetic to the true Pelerins. She became irritated when four "pilgrims" made a reservation and only one was really walking and the others came by car. She had turned down several who were really walking.  We had a wonderful rest and then were treated to a regional dish of Casseole(sp) that may have been the best dinner we've had yet in France.  

Gite d'etape Halte Laressingle - clean, beautiful facilities, and fantastic dinner.  Owner is very pilgrim friendly

Day 17: Trigodina to Montlauzun 26 Kilometers

Awoke early, packed our bags and found breakfast ready at 6:45.  Started walking soon thereafter.  Had an early wake up call as we were attacked by a large dog.  Escaped unscathed except for wrenching my (Ed) bad ankle.  No worries, just kept walking.  Traveled a pretty quick 18 kilometers where we arrived in Montcuq on.....Market Day!! Two days in a row we get to partake of fantastic markets. Can't fully describe these days as they must be experienced.  The sights and smells are intoxicating.  Even though it's Sunday, we were able to do quite a bit.  Visited the tourism office where they made a reservation for us (Many have talked of difficulty in booking ahead because of places being full.  We haven't experienced this since early in our journey).  When they asked where we were from they were quite surprised when we told them the U.S.  Said they didn't have many Americans visit.  We spent some time gathering goodies for a picnic at the market.  Rested for a bit at a cafe as we enjoyed some tasty coffee.  Only seven or eight kilometers remained and we didn't want to arrive too early so our pace slowed a bit in the afternoon.  Stopped at a church with a picnic table area but it was consumed by a large walking group.  We enjoyed our picnic on the church steps.  As we marched on, a few raindrops started to fall so we moved a bit quicker until we reached the tiny village of Montlauzun.  Even though We were a bit early for reception, our hostess was gracious enough to allow us in.  She and her husband are from England and walked from LePuy to Santiago 12 years ago.  They loved it so much they decided to move to France to operate a Gite.  Their place is an old converted church and is wonderfully restored.  Only five pelerins (two French Canadians, a French gentleman and us) are here and we shared a simple yet superb dinner of carrot soup, duck confit, new potatoes, green beans and soft bread. Hadn't had duck since we've been in France and it was prepared perfectly. And apple tart for dessert! We're spoiled. It's been a very restful stay here as we prepare for a long haul tomorrow.

Gite Ancien Presbytere - very unique, clean, great dinner. Run by an English couple who have walked from Le Puy to Santiago. 

Day 14: Cabrerets to Pasturats 28 Kilometers

As Petite dejeuner goes, today's was pretty nice with croissants and yogurt.  Afterwards, we stepped outside and started straight up.  Bypassed the famous Peche Merle caves as they were not open and put some kilometers behind us.  Took a side trip (basically an out and back) on the Chemin De Halag to the mountain village of St. Cirq Lapopie, dubbed the most beautiful town in France.  We found it to be very picturesque.  We wandered for a bit and took in the views.  Found a place to rest and get coffee.  We procured a wonderful picnic with salad, cheese, fruit and a pastry.  Of course we had bread, leftover from breakfast.  After our repas, we had the choice to take the busy road or stay on a GR path that was to be only 3k longer.  We chose the path and it turned out to be diverse with some nice river trails but had a very tough uphill section. We eventually arrived in Pasturats.  Staying at a very  "complete" Gite.  Had another great community meal (soup, pork, rice, fromage, tart) where we ate with some Australian folks, one of which identified Joan from the Camino forums.  

Gite d'etape Le Relais de Patsurat: very good. Great people and dinner.  Eclectic little house out back of their own house 

Day 7: L'Estrade to Estaing 26 Kilometers

Awoke a little tired as our roommates were pro snorers. Bit of a cloudy morning walk but soon landed us in Saint-Come D'Olt, a medieval walled city built around a grand cathedral with an twisted spire.  Coffee with our friends Ken and Retha before crossing the river Lot and heading towards the next village.  This trek found us in the bustling city of Espalion.  We took a walking tour of the town, and had a nice lunch in a cafe run by an older couple.  This fueled us for a hard, long walk to the village of Estaing.  This old town is built along the river lot that runs through a mountain pass.  Quite remarkable.  Crossing the gothic bridge you get unbelievable views of the town that has an impressive castle.  Our accommodations were meager, but acceptable.

Gite....Hospitalite Saint-Jacques. This was an adequate place. Bunk beds. She said we had to have communal dinner, and prayer time at 9pm. This was not clear in the Miam Miam Dodo guide. Dinner was okay and we all shared in clean up. Bathroom was not in good shape. 

Day 6: Nasbinals to L'Estrade 24 Kilometers

Awoke to find a bit of fog and a bit cooler.  Started our day differently than most.  No bowl of coffee but rather a "proper" coffee at a petite cafe.  After we got walking, it didn't take long for us to come out of our cool weather clothing when the sun broke through as we ascended in elevation.  Today's walk took us through many gated pastures with rustic farms, amazing views and many cows.  Several commented that this was one of the most picturesque walks. Hard to argue. Had two well timed stops where we partook of some tasty goodies and more coffee.  Arrived at our gite a bit early to check in but were received by our hostess who gave us some comfy lawn chairs and tasty, sweet beverages to enjoy while we waited.  After showers and washing clothes we relaxed until our community meal of potato soup , pasta with roasted veal, wonderful cheeses, finishing with fresh fruit and a slice of cake. Sleep was scarce due to snorers, but we will move on this morning after our breakfast of coffee and bread.

Day 5: Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals 26.5 kilometers

We had a tremendous thunder storm during the night and woke to cloudy skies with a chance of rain all day. We quickened our pace and after 20K a light rain began to fall so we took shelter in an old communal oven. It is a stone structure about 15 ft by 20 ft. and they are often in the center of small villages. This one had benches inside which was nice to sit and eat lunch. We finished our walk with just a few sprinkles. 

Gite Centre d'Accueil Nada. Very basic and old. In need of some help, but we are fine here and had plenty of hot water and quiet. No bunk beds. 

Our Day in LePuy en Velay

K

Today we took an intentional rest day before we begin our trek across France.  We are staying at L'epicurium Chambre d'hotes.  Basically, it's a type of bed and breakfast.  Sort of rustic yet well restored in a quiet side street in the historic district.  We awoke to a traditional French breakfast of bread and jam and a bowl of coffee.  We enjoyed a very chill morning exploring the town but spent the bulk of our time at two of the most interesting places built atop volcanic eruptions.  The first was the Notre Dame de France, a giant statue of Mary and Jesus.  It's very much like the Statue of Liberty as we were able to climb to the top and look out of the crown of stars and see the incredible views.  Next we explored St. Michel d'Aiguile. (Pictured below) It was built in 961 thanks to Gothescalk, bishop of le Puy en Velay after returning from his pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. 

                        

    

It was such a treat to see these sights on a sunny warm day. We enjoyed lunch down the stairs from the cathedral Nortre-Dame....yes there is more than one cathedral by that name. We ate some delicious local cuisine.  After lunch we took in the Catherdal which was built during the 11th and 12th centuries. We continued our walking around town looking at shops and admiring the lace work that has a long history here. We stopped for a coffee  and  then back to our room for a nap as we are trying to catch up on our rest. In the evening we attended a pilgrims gathering sponsored by a local group. Dinner was difficult to find as the dinner hour here is after 8pm and we wanted to eat and get to bed as Mass is at 7am tomorrow and we plan to attend. 

Le Puy is a larger town and it was possible to find some who speak a little English, but as we walk to smaller villages, we will be having to communicate with mostly French and hand gestures.  Although we are not prepared as well to communicate as we were in Spain, we have found the people to be extremely friendly and hospitable.  It has been comforting.  It helped make today an extremely relaxed and enjoyable day.